Chicken Bouillabaisse

This recipe is, of course, a re-imagining of the very traditional fish stew of Marseilles.  Like many genius-y French things, bouillabaisse was born of convenience and pragmatism; fishermen tossed the bony fish they could not sell into a pot of sea water along with some garlic and fennel (and later tomatoes), cooked it for hours, and dreamed of the day when spoiled over-fed Americans would make it with a pinch of saffron from a tiny plastic bag that comes inside a small glass jar and costs $20 bucks.  What a laugh they must have had.  If only they’d patented it.

Why Cook’s Illustrated felt the need to create a chicken version of this dish I don’t know.  Maybe they needed a break from measuring the porosity of plastic storage bags with a micrometer.  Regardless, it was a great idea especially since it meant I could now serve it to my mother who eats nothing from the sea.

The result is sophisticated comfort food with a fascinating collections of flavors.  The base itself is impressive enough but when you add croutons (which make anything better) and a rouille (kind of a bread-based mayonnaise) it’s a dish you will want to share with everyone.

In addition to the pricy saffron, you’re going to have to shell out for a bottle of Pernod too (we have clearly left the humble Provencal fisherman far behind).  Well worth it though.

Chicken Bouillabaisse is from the November, 2009 issue of Cook’s Illustrated.

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Girl in the Kitchen: Escarole and Frisee Salad with Apple Vinaigrette

I love Stephanie because Stephanie loves croutons.  She seems to agree that one of the primary reasons a person should eat salad is for the croutons (or the cheese, avocados, dried fruit, nuts, creamy dressing, take your pick). 

How do I know she loves them?  Because she puts them in everything and has come up with several techniques for making them, each one more decadent and delicious than the last.  Here the the cubed ciabatta is tossed with melted butter, thyme, and garlic then baked. 

Delicious as this salad is, it’s a little more time consuming that its title suggests.  In addition to making the croutons the vinaigrette is not a mere whisking of oil and vinegar with some seasoning thrown in.  Oh no.  You make an apple puree out of apples, apples cider, cider vinegar, and maple syrup which you then must liquefy this in a blender.

Totally worth it though.  And you know what?  I didn’t think I liked radishes but, as it turns out, I like them just fine when they’re sliced very thin on a mandoline.  And draped over croutons.

A slightly more streamlined version of this recipe is on Stephanie’s site right here.

It’s also on page 98 of Girl in the Kitchen.

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Girl in the Kitchen: Olive Oil-Poached Shrimp with Soba Noodles

Isn’t this so cute?  The way the shrimp are snuggling on the bed of noodles and holding the asparagus like a beloved teddy bear?  Then I ate them.  Tragic.

In executing this recipe I learned a new technique: oil poaching. 

Which is nothing more exotic or complicated than baking something immersed in oil and tightly covered.  It’s an especially nice option for shrimp which have the annoying habit of going from raw to over-cooked (and dry and chewy) very, very quickly.  Mine did take longer than the 15 minutes called for in the recipe (maybe an extra 10).  After you’ve poached your shrimp you use the shrimp-infused olive oil for the vinaigrette.

If you haven’t tried soba noodles yet do yourself a favor and get some.  I found mine at Mariano’s (Roundy’s) but I’ve seen them a other regular grocery stores that have a decent Asian aisle.  Whole Foods should have them too.  I’m kind of obsessed with them right now.  I think it’s the nuttiness.  Suits my current mood.  I’m similarly a sucker for any kind of cold Asian noodle dish with sesame seeds and sesame oil so this was a highly satisfying meal for me.

The recipe is on Stephanie’s site (where, for some reason it’s called Olive Oil-Poached Shrimp and Soba Salad).  One important difference in the online recipe: in the book Step 1 tells you to get your shrimp marinating and that’s important because it takes an hour.  So yeah.  Do that.

The recipe is also on page 124 of Girl in the Kitchen.

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Around My French Table: Gougeres

As a testament to how yummy these are, they survived me putting not enough of the wrong kind of cheese in them.

There I was, being a really good pretend chef, getting my mise en place all ready, which included 1 cup of grated parmesan for the carbonara I was making as a main dish as well as the 1-1/2 cups gruyere for these little gems.  Sure enough, I dumped the parm into the gougeres and didn’t realize it until they were in the oven.  I couldn’t even add an extra half cup of parm at that point.

In addition to being delicious, gougeres can be made ahead, either before cooking or after.  Dorie doesn’t even insist that you get your pastry bag out but says you can use a tablespoon to portion them.  I used my little Oxo cookie scooper.

The recipe is right here on Epicurious as well as in Around My French Table.

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Artichoke and Spinach Relish with Walnuts

I’m so remiss in not sharing this recipe with you earlier and for that you may pelt me with canned artichoke hearts.  I deserve it.  I have been making this for years and it’s one of my favorite appetizers ever. 

It will remind you of that classic spinach-artichoke dip that we all know and love but with a lighter, brighter, more sophisticated treatment.  I love scooping up the warm, cheesy, mayonnaise-y version with a Triscuit as much as the next girl but I love this one equally.  The toasted walnuts are so good and the lemon juice is a welcome bright note that complements the artichokes perfectly. 

One additional note: after you drain, rinse and chop the artichoke hearts, I would drain them again.  A lot of water is released when they’re chopped and you don’t want the relish to be too soggy.  I assume.  No judgments.

You can make it a day ahead and serve with your favorite cracker (including Triscuits!) and veggies.

The recipe, from Real Simple magazine, is here.

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The Cook’s Illustrated Cookbook: Roasted Smashed Potatoes

As promised, these potatoes deliver both the fluffy interior of a baked potato and the crispy exterior of a french fry (without the deep frying).  They are absolutely heavenly and will you will forget any weirdness you felt when crushing potatoes between two sheet pans.

They are on page 277.

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Girl in the Kitchen: Asparagus Linguine with Almond Butter Crisp

This would be a fairly straightforward pasta dish — asparagus, baby arugula and olive oil — before you add the almond butter crisp.  And please, take a moment to fully absorb that that concept: Almond.  Butter.  Crisp.  It’s nuts and butter and bread crumbs and parmesan.  As Stephanie says, it’s a savory version of a crunchy topping you might typically find on a fruit dessert and bless her heart for re-imagining it so we can eat it more often.  And make no mistake: it is the Crisp that makes this dish extraordinary.  After you make it you may want to store it in your neighbor’s fridge until the pasta is ready lest you nibble away at all of it before dinner.

This would be a good option for a week night meal but for the roasted garlic, which will set you back 30-40 minutes.  If you can manage to remember to do that ahead of time this becomes more realistic for a Tuesday night.

And here’s some wisdom about about breadcrumbs.  Please don’t tell me you’re buying cans of these things at the store.  That would make me cry.  What I do is collect all of the heels of loaves of bread, the extra hot dog and hamburger buns, etc., process them into crumbs in the food processor, and keep them in a ziploc bag in the freezer.  It makes me feel frugal and virtuous and I need all of that I can get.

The recipe is right here, thanks to HuffPo.

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Girl in the Kitchen: Pork and Apple Ragu with Parparadelle

Sorry, I just can't take a good picture lately

One thing I’m learning very quickly about our friend Miss Stephanie Izard is that she is not about the 30-minute meal.  Like most professional chefs, she loves the kitchen and gets paid to be in it all day and kind of assumes we all feel the same way.  For me, only the former is true.  But hey, the title of the book is not Girl Gets out of the Kitchen in 30 Minutes and Gets a Ton of Other Stuff Done so she is not misleading anyone.

I was absolutely thrilled, however, to find this little gem which is one of those great dishes that look and sound and taste like they took a long time but are deceptively quick.  The sauce — ground pork, bacon, apples, garlic, onion, wine, broth, and tomatoes — only requires 15 minutes of simmer time.  The prep is dicing an onion and mincing some garlic.  A few capers are thrown in in the end and I almost left them out.  I always remember what Nora Ephron said in Heartburn about being paid by the American Caper Council (or whatever) to develop recipes with capers in them.  From this experience she discovered that anything with capers tastes even better without them.  But I did add them and while I would never call the great Nora Ephron wrong exactly, I will say that perhaps she hasn’t tasted capers in this particular dish because they were perfect and added just the right little pop of briny-saltiness.  I have a new respect for capers as a result.

You can find the recipe right here, on Stephanie’s site.  In the book she recommends garnishing this dish with lots of freshly-grated Parmesan and, honestly, why wouldn’t you?

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The Next Book: Girl in the Kitchen

Is Stephanie Izard’s Chicago restaurant Girl and the Goat the hardest reservation in town these days? I don’t know but I do know I have had three separate conversations in recent weeks about strategies for getting in, and that is telling, no? (And don’t think I’m going to tell you the strategies because I think at least one of them works and, although I love you all deeply, you’re so not getting my table).

Although there is a fair amount of goat on the menu at Girl and the Animal of the Same Name, there is none, yes none, in the cookbook. Which is probably why they didn’t call it The Girl and the Goat Cookbook (imagine the dozens of books returned by disappointed customers).

Instead, what the first woman to win Top Chef offers is (in her own words) “a collection of recipes built on a few classic techniques” influenced, of course, by her unique point of view about food. But here’s what really interests me: she says in her forward “I promise you that even though a couple of recipes might be aimed more at a special dinner party than a Tuesday night supper, all are simple enough to do at home and are made with ingredients readily available from your local grocery store.” Color me skeptical but — game on Goat Girl!

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Make this Now: Butternut Squash Galette with Gruyere

Be warned: this is a project. It probably took me three hours start to finish but it was so worth it.

If you’ve ever wanted to eat pie for dinner but just could not come up with a way to justify it, I think I can help you.  Make it out of vegetables.  You’re welcome.

Of course, it’s not that simple.  The dough needs to be adjusted so that it’s easier to work with and can withstand the vegetables’ tendency to leak all over everything.   This is accomplished by substituting some of the white flour with just the right amount of whole wheat flour.  How did the good people at Cook’s find “just the right amount”?  If you really want a dissertation on the relative hydrating properties of flour read the article.  I’m ok knowing that they probably made 45 of these things and I can skip the organic chemistry lesson.

I was lucky enough to find already peeled and cut-up butternut squash thus saving me from one of the least favorite kitchen tasks.  I also recommend making the dough ahead to make this at least seem like less than an entire afternoon’s worth of work.

The Butternut Squash Galette with Gruyere, along with Mushroom and Leek Galette and Potato and Shallot Galette with Goat Cheese, are in the January/February 2012 issue of Cook’s Illustrated.

Butternut Squash Galette with Gruyere

Adapted from Cook’s Illustrated, January/February 2012
Serves 6
Dough
1-3/4 cups (6-1/4 oz.) all-purpose flour
1/2 cup (2-3/4 oz.) whole-wheat flour
1 tablespoon sugar
3/4 teaspoon salt
10 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 1/2″ pieces and chilled
7 tablespoons ice water
1 tablespoon white vinegar
Filling
6 oz. baby spinach
1-1/4 lbs. butternut squash, peeled and cut into 1/2″ cubes
5 tablespoons olive oil
1 red onions, sliced thin
1/2 teaspoon minced fresh oregano
3 oz. gruyere cheese, shredded (3/4 cup)
2 tablespoons creme fraiche
1 teaspoon sherry vinegar
salt and pepper
1 large egg, lightly beaten
kosher salt
2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley
For the Dough:
1. Pulse flours, sugar and salt in the food processor until combined, 2-3 pulses.  Add butter and pulse until it is in pea-sized pieces, about 10 pulses.  Transfer to a medium bowl.
2. Sprinkle water and vinegar over mixture.  With rubber spatula, fold mixture until a loose mass forms with some dry flour remaining.  Transfer to a sheet of plastic wrap, shape into a thick square and wrap tightly.  Refrigerate at least 45 minutes.
3. Transfer dough to a lightly floured work surface and roll into an 11×8″ rectangle.  Using a bench scraper, fold in threes like a business letter.  Turn and roll again into an 11 x 8″ rectangle and fold into thirds again.  Repeat by turning and folding one more time and then fold in half to create a 4″ square.  Press top of dough to seal, wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 45 minutes or up to two days.
For the Filling:
4. Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position, place pizza stone on rack and heat to 400 degrees.
5. Place spinach and 1/4 cup water in a large microwave-safe bowl.  Cover with a large dinner plate and microwave on high 3-4 minutes, or until spinach is reduced by half.  Using potholders, carefully removed from microwave and keep covered for 1 minute.  Carefully remove plate and transfer spinach to colander.  Gently press spinach against sides of colander to release liquid.  Transfer to cutting board, chop roughly and return to colander to press again.  Add squash to now empty bowl and microwave until tender, about 8 minutes.
6. Meanwhile, heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a 12″ skillet over medium heat until shimmering.  Add onion and oregano, cover, and cook until onions are tender and beginning to brown, 5-7 minutes, stirring frequently.  Remove from heat, add onion mixture to squash along with spinach, cheese, creme fraiche and vinegar and stir gently to combine.  Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Assemble and Bake:
7. Remove dough from refrigerator and let stand for 15-20 minutes.  Roll out on generously floured work surface (or directly onto a sheet of parchment) to a 14″ circle.  Transfer to a (parchment-lined) rimmed baking sheet.  With a plastic straw or paring knife, cut five small holes into dough — one in the center and four evenly-spaced midway from center to edge of dough.  Brush top of dough with 1 teaspoon olive oil.
8. Spread filling evenly over dough leaving a 2″ border around the edge.  Drizzle remaining teaspoon olive oil over filling.  Carefully grasp one edge of dough and fold up outer 2″ over filling.  Repeat around circumference of tart, overlapping dough every 2-3″.  Gently pinch pleated dough to secure. Brush dough with egg and sprinkle evenly with kosher salt.
9. Lower oven temperature to 375 and bake until crust is deep golden brown and filling is beginning to brown, 35-45 minutes.  Cool tart on baking sheet on wire rack for 10 minutes.  Carefully slide tart off parchment onto cutting board.  Sprinkle with parsley, cut into wedges and serve.

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