Review: Ad Hoc at Home

I surprise even myself when I tell you that I will probably buy this book and I’m recommending it to you. Because when you get over your initial disappointment over the fact that Thomas Keller’s idea of what constitutes “everyday staples,” or “approachable food, recipes that are doable at home” is very different than yours, you can begin to appreciate the book for what it really is.  And that is: a book with excellent albeit challenging recipes from one of the best chefs in the country and a man who clearly has his finger on the pulse of what people want to eat.  He is also a man, however, who does not hesitate to source obscure ingredients that can only be procured via mail-order (from unique web sites), and he would probably not apologize for creating one recipe that references five others.  He has not written these recipes that is in any way mindful of, or sympathetic to, how many bowls and pans you’re gong to dirty, or the fact that you have not gotten around to hiring a chef de partie.  That’s not his job.  His job is to tell you that he has developed a fried chicken that is a religious experience and don’t demean us all by asking if you really need to brine it in a lemon-honey bath for 12 hours.  If that’s how you feel just go to Popeye’s and get it over with.

It’s ironic that part of Keller’s mission with this book is to help us create food that is meant to celebrate “the ritual of eating together…sharing stories of the day” when in reality the time investment required for most of these dishes means that you will NOT be sharing stories with anyone unless you talk to your chicken parts.  But it’s forgivable in the end; just get over that.  Pick one recipe for a special dinner party and submit to the ingredient-treasure-hunt and the kitchen lock-down.  Decide you’re finally going to try brioche and today’s the day (well, today and tomorrow).  Pick a complicated main dish and just serve frozen peas with it so you don’t make yourself crazy.  And, for the love of God, find a good source for canola oil because the man LOVES to fry things and you’re gonna wish you had a pipeline for the stuff. 

In addition to the recipes, Keller offers advice on “Becoming a Better Cook.”  While I don’t disagree with ”Learn to use salt properly, “Learn how to roast a chicken,” “Learn how to saute,” “Learn to cook eggs,” (I think he had me in mind when he wrote that), or “Learn to make pie crust” (amen brother), I’m a little mystified by: “The bottom line is this: in order to be a good cook, you have to be aware of everything around you.”  Oh…kay.  I wish he could cook dinner one night with me, after a full day of work, when the dogs are barking to come in or go out, the phone is ringing, the UPS man is at the door and kids are tearing in and out.  As the cook in those situations, I’d like to be aware of much, much less that is around me. 

Also included are some things that I think we’ve all heard before by now: care a lot about your ingredients and go to the farmer’s market; buy quality equipment including a good knife and decent pots and pans (One of the four essential countertop appliances he recommends is a Vita-Mix blender — worth the “several hundred dollars” it will set you back.  I don’t mind him plugging an appliance that most of us will never buy but to refer to it by name in recipes seems extreme.  Yes, it’s probably nice if you make a lot of nut butters but does vinaigrette really benefit from being pureed in a $500 blender?).  He also plugs mise en place under the heading “be organized” and I agree completely.  It’s only when you lay out all the ingredients for a dish that you realize you’re going to have to make a last-minute run to the store because you only assumed you had red wine vinegar, you didn’t actually check.  And “work clean,” (by which he means keep a tidy work space, not don’t go “blue”) is very sensible.

I made 11 recipes from this book which was more than I originally intended and it was hard to stop.  I think what appeals to me most about this book is that I  agree with the fundamental premise that even if you make something as “basic” as hamburgers, give the meal and the people eating it the proper respect by making them as good as they can be.  Eating is important and, as much as possible, should be a very thoughtful act.  Almost every recipe in this book called out to me to be made, and that is why I will buy the book and why I’m recommending it.  A cookbook that leaves you wanting more is a keeper.