I am a relatively new convert to eggs but I’m making up for lost time. I could probably eat eggs, even scrambled eggs, every week for dinner if I thought I could get away with it. So quick, so easy, so adaptable, such a great holder of cheese, they really are the perfect weeknight meal. And I hear people like them for breakfast too. Go figure.
But if you think I like eggs listen to what Ruhlman says about them in the Egg chapter: “…the egg is meaningful simply as a beautiful object, the hard but delicate shell protecting the life within, its elliptical curves symbolic of life and fertility. The egg is divine.” Ohhhkayyy. I think we need to leave Michael and his egg alone for a little while we break a few of the beautiful little fertility objects and make something to eat.
But he’s right about one thing: eggs are hard-working food. As he notes in this chapter they can be eaten on their own in many ways, used as a garnish (adding an egg to things like salads, vegetables, burgers, pizza etc. makes them heartier and more of a meal), or as a means to add air, which, in turn, provides structure to cakes, foams, and meringues. Use whole eggs when you want something you can slice (creme caramel, quiche) and only the yolks when you want something silky and rich but looser (creme brulee, hollandaise).
Eggs respond best, he says, to slow cooking (which is why many recipes call for them to be room-temperature) and these scrambled eggs are so delicious because they are cooked in a double-boiler set-up over simmering water. And don’t worry, you don’t need anything actually labeled “double boiler;” any two pots that fit together work fine. I used my large Le Cruset dutch oven with the All-Clad 3 qt. saucier over it. (Ruhlman gives you other ideas for make-shift double boilers.) The only thing I will advise is that, if at all possible, make the eggs in something non-stick otherwise you will have a pan dedicated to making only scrambled eggs. Worth it, though, as these were the silkiest, creamiest eggs I’ve ever had. Of course you can substitute the cheese or the herbs or both. Eggs are very forgiving that way.
Scrambled Eggs with Goat Cheese and Chives are on page 109 of Ruhlman’s Twenty and here. (I’m a little hesitant to link you to a site called “Recipe Circus” because, well, circus. But hey, free recipe.)